Width setting of Knitted Fabric
In any fabric width is the very important parameter for the Garment Cutting section Incharge . As a rule of the supplier and customer relationship , It is very important to understand the need of customer by the Supplier . In case of fabric , Ultimately it has to be convert in to garment. Hence garment cutting section is the customer for the fabric finishng section.
In the knitted fabric width variation is very common problem, In general garmenter will say it is knitted on same knitting dia machine, So why width variation.
So we can say width variation is a topic on which many projects have been done, and manymore to do .
It starts from Knitting machine.If the knitter is changing the expander frame setting of the knitting machine , It will change the stretch property of the fabric . And from here the widthvariation starts .
After knitting , next step is lot preperation, And in this machine fabric is pulled length wise , And it gives again the width variation. .
Now the machine comes in the picture is Dyeing/ Bleaching, It is the place where all pre elongation has to be nutralised with the presence of water , But up to what limit it does ?
So ultimately it is the finishing section who has to correct the width , without blaiming previous department .
In this case the width setted at the stenter is the width which garmenter will get . But to control the shrinkage we have to do compaction also .
Hence now question comes at what width Stenter should finish ?
In general rule , Width before compactor should be 2 ” less than the finish required width, So that it can be pulled at the compactor , and over feed also can be given.
But for the Stretch fabric the rule is opposite , WE should have minimum 2 ” extra width than the required finish width. And reason is very simple , because of steaming process in the compactor Stretch fabric will shrink in the length and width . But as length is continuous , So it will not be much, But width is free after 65 ” or what ever is the width, So width will shrink , Hence Stretch Fabric should have 2 ” extra width than the required width before compactor and also after comopactor 1″ extra .