Textile Testing
Textile Testing is the application of science & knowledge to evaluate the performance of textile products.
Textile testing can be performed at different stages of textiles. Very brief details are given below:
- Fiber : Maturity, fiber length etc.
- Yarn : Twist, evenness, Imperfection, Uster %, strength, elongation, count etc.
- Fabric : Strength, colorfastness, performance & chemical properties
- Garment: Seam Slippage, Appearance, D.P.Rating etc.
- Trims & Accessories
Various Standard used in Textile Testing
Ø ISO – (International organisation for Standardization)
Ø AATCC – American Association of textile colorists & chemists
Ø ASTM — American Society of Textile & Materials
Ø BIS — Bureau of Indian Standard
Ø BS — British standard
Ø SDC — Society of Dyers & Colorists
Ø JIS — Japanese standard
Ø CAN — Canadian Standard
Most common standard among above are AATCC & ISO Standard.
Selection of test method depends on the country of destination or approved by the buyers.
General classification of tests & equipment used
While textile testing is broad in scope and encompasses several textile properties, most of the tests performed on textile products can be categorized in five major sections, which are listed below.
a. Physical tests
These tests are mainly physical or mechanical in nature, conducted with the help of mechanical equipments.
No chemical is required for the testing except water in few tests.
The main requirement for these test are standard conditions, which need to be strictly maintained. Relative Humidity & Temperature are the key parameters as they have an affect on the physical properties of the textiles.
Standard Conditions are:
Relative humidity: 65 ± 2 %
Temperature: 20 ± 2 °C.
Example of tests in this category is as given below
Physical tests for fabric & Garments
|
Test Name |
Equipment Used |
|
Abrasion Resistance |
Nu-Martindale Tester |
|
Pilling Strength |
Random Tumbler /ICI Pill Box |
|
Tear Strength |
Tear Tester |
|
Tensile Strength |
UTM |
|
Bursting Strength |
Bursting Tester |
|
Count |
Balance, scissor & scale |
|
Construction |
Pick glass |
|
Fabric Weight |
GSM Cutter or Round cutter |
|
Seam Slippage / Strength |
|
|
Stretch and recovery |
UTM |
b. Color Fastness tests
These tests are used to determine the resistance of the color to various textiles under various actions such as washing, rubbing, light, perspiration etc.
Usually dyed or printed textiles are tested under this category. Examples of tests included in this category are as follows:
Color fastness tests for Fabric & Garments
|
Test Name |
Equipments Used |
|
Color fastness to Laundering |
Launderometer |
|
Colorfastness to Crocking/Rubbing |
Crock meter |
|
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning |
Launderometer |
|
Colorfastness to Perspiration |
Perspirometer, Oven |
|
Colorfastness to Light |
Fadometer |
|
Dimensional Stability to Washing |
Washing Machine & Shrinkage Template |
|
Appearance after Laundering |
Washing Machine |
c. Performance tests
These tests are conducted to determine the performance of textile products after repeated laundering or dry-cleaning under various conditions.
These tests are critical to quality of textile product for end users. Examples of tests under this category are as follows:
Performance tests for Fabric & Garments
|
Test Name |
Equipments Used |
|
Dimensional Stability to Washing |
Washing Machine & replicas
|
|
Appearance after Laundering |
|
|
Skewness / Spirality |
|
|
D.P.Rating (For Wrinkle free only) |
d. Chemical tests
In these tests chemicals are main part of testing. Examples of tests in this category are given below
- Fiber Identification
- PH
- Azo free
- OKEO TEX-100
- Formaldehyde
- PCP
e. Color Assessment
Color assessment is conducted for evaluation of Color Change and Visual appearance after repeated laundering or dry-cleaning. This is the indicator of textile performance when subjected to actual use.
- Color Matching Cabinet
- Grey Scale